PRODUCTION
AGAVE & HARVESTING
Agave plants, referred to as “Maguey” in Oaxaca, require varying maturation periods depending on their type and location, ranging from five to over thirty years before they are ready for harvest. Maguey can be cultivated, semi-wild, or wild, with the latter becoming increasingly unsustainable due to overharvesting. In Oaxaca, the agave espadín is the predominant variety, typically farmed, which can lead to monocultures that are vulnerable to disease. To eliminate this issue and promote biodiversity, Julio ensures he plants from seed, rather than just using genetically cloned hijuelos, and also plants multiple types of agave alongside other cultivated crops.
Julio cultivates all his agave from seed, initially nurturing them in nurseries until they are ready for transplantation to the hills, a process that takes a couple of years. Depending on the species, some agaves are planted in open fields, while others are interspersed among trees on the hillsides surrounding his palenque. They remain there until the time for harvest arrives.
Once the agaves reach maturity, Julio and his team proceed to the fields for hand-harvesting. Since not all agaves mature simultaneously, the harvesting process is meticulous and requires the use of machetes. The leaves are trimmed away from the piña, or heart of the agave. After trimming, the harvested agaves are typically left in the field for a few days before being transported, usually by mules, as the rugged terrain is often unsuitable for trucks.
ROAST
The agave undergoes a traditional roasting process in a fire-heated earthen pit oven, a hallmark of authentic mezcal production. This pit is excavated into the ground and lined with volcanic rock. Initially, a bonfire is ignited at the base of the pit; once the flames subside, red-hot embers are covered with stones. These stones are then layered with wet agave fibers. The pit is filled with maguey, which is heaped several feet above ground level. Subsequently, the mound is covered with straw mats or tarps and buried under earth. Over the course of several days, the heat emanating from the stones cooks the maguey, imparting distinct flavors to the mezcal.
MILL & FERMENT
After the agave has been roasted, cooled, and milled, the fibers are placed into open wooden fermentation vats. The crushed maguey undergoes natural fermentation with the addition of water, a process that typically lasts from one to four weeks. This duration can vary based on several factors, including sugar content, temperature, altitude, the frequency of fermentation in that particular palenque, and proximity to livestock. The use of commercial or proprietary yeasts is uncommon and generally discouraged; most mezcal is fermented using the ambient yeasts and microbes native to the specific palenque.
A traditional mezcalero closely monitors the fermenting mash, engaging with it through observation, listening, smelling, touching, and tasting as the sugar content decreases and alcohol levels rise. This attentive process helps determine the optimal time for distillation.
DISTILLATION
Once the juice has undergone fermentation, it is transported to copper pot stills, which are fueled by wood. Distillation is the process that separates the components of a liquid mixture through boiling and subsequent condensation. Mezcal can be distilled once, twice, or even three times; however, double distillation is most prevalent in Oaxaca. The initial distillation produces an impure liquid known as ordinario, común, or shishe, depending on the region. This liquid is thenc distilled a second time and divided into three parts: heads, hearts, and tails. The maestro skillfully blends these components to create a distinctive mezcal.
Following the blending process, the mezcal is allowed to rest for several weeks, enabling the flavors to harmonize. Finally, the mezcal is ready for bottling.
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